I felt my Irish skin sizzling as I sat in the back of a tap-tap. I heard a
chorus of “blanc! blanc!” coming from all around me. The stench of animal and
human defecation, burning trash, and rotting food and flesh filled my nostrils.
Billy knocked on the window to get my attention and said, “okay? okay!” He
stepped on the pedal, and off we went.
***
“‘elp me?” An aged woman pulled
back a blanket to reveal a tiny face, no more than a few hours old. I gasped,
horrified, and waited for Sadrac to translate the full story.
“Her neighbor
has five babies. HIV. No food. Baby in the trash,” Sadrac told me. I felt
breakfast coming up my throat.
I rushed the premature and starving baby in
to see Dr. Carter. The clinic had been set up just a week before with HIV
testing facilities. Half an hour later our fear was confirmed. She needed care
that our little clinic could not provide. In the US she would have been
airlifted to the nearest major hospital, but in Titanyen, Haiti, she was bussed
and taxied to the only major hospital. Jennifer, a volunteer nurse, a
soft-spoken southerner with kind blue eyes and the prettiest blond curls, was
sent to accompany the baby on the half-day’s journey to the hospital in
Port-Au-Prince.
***
At 5:30 AM the fan in our room turned off, and I woke
up instantly when sweat started to pool all over my body. Mosquitoes, no longer
warded off by the fan, swarmed around my face. I climbed out of my top bunk and
went to get some breakfast. Dr. Carter was sitting at the table talking to
Jennifer, who had enormous black circles around her red-tinted eyes.
“What
happened?” I asked anxiously.
She looked at me and spoke. “She…,” Jennifer
choked on that one word and gasped as tears poured out of her eyes.
Dr.
Carter finished for her. “She didn’t make it through the night.”
***
Anitha enunciated every consonant and puckered her lips as she spoke
through her thick Creole accent. “Sawah, what do you do at home?” She sorted
vitamins on the counter of the Mission of Hope’s pharmacy.
“I work at
Starbucks.”
“Eh?” Anitha stared at me, raising her eyebrows in wait for me
to actually answer her question.
“I work at…,” Sudden realization must have
flashed across my face. “I work at a coffee…,” My eyes looked away as I thought
hard. “I sell coffee. And food. Breakfast.”
Anitha nodded. “Oh! You like?”
“Yes… yeah, I like it.”
***
“Can you just drop off these de-worming
meds on your way to the beach?” asked Dr. Carter, a wrinkly, retired,
seventy-three year-old man with a thick southern accent who spent two weeks
every other month volunteering at the Mission of Hope Haiti.
“Sure can!”
said Andy, a pudgy New Englander who was, like me, on his first visit to a third
world country. On the last day of our trip, our guilt-ridden beach day, Andy,
the rest of our group, and I stopped at the same orphanage we’d visited a few
days before. We were armed with a Ziploc bag of little white pills, and a party
sized bag of Dum-Dums. At their teacher’s command, 45 orphans age 11 months
through 14 years lined up for candy. The little ones cried when the medicine
touched their taste-buds, but lit up when the flavor was put out by a Dum-Dum.
***
“Sarah! Get in here!” yelled Dr. Carter from the patient examination
room.
I poked my head in the door. “Yes?” I asked expectantly.
“Here,
take this. You’ve given shots before, right?” He extended his arms, and I saw in
his hands a large syringe and vile filled with red liquid.
“What! You’re
kidding! You do it. I don’t know how to give a shot.” I held up my hands in
protest and started to back out of the room.
Dr. Carter laughed and said,
“you have to learn sometime if you’re gonna be a nurse!”
“No I don’t! I’m not
even sure I wanna be a nurse!” My eyebrows were raised sternly. “Oh, get over
here. It’s easy.” Dr. Carter smiled and beckoned me into the room. Billy, the
translator, spoke in Creole to the confused man sitting on the examination
table, who laughed. He had yellow teeth and orange hair, a look that meant
malnutrition. I stepped into the room, and Dr. Carter handed me the syringe and
the vile. “Like this.” He motioned with his hands, and I reluctantly obeyed. I
filled the syringe with Vitamin B12 and stabbed the needle into the Haitian
man’s bony arm. He covered a wince with a gaping smile and a loud
“merci!”
***
“What color is the discharge? And is there any burning or
itching?”
Vena had a quick Creole conversation with the young patient, who
had the saggiest A cup I’ve ever seen. “Yellow. Itchy.”
I inhaled quickly at
the visual in my mind. My nostrils were greeted by putrid body odor. I wrote on
my notepad and said, “anything else the matter?”
Vena again spoke to the old
woman. “Diarrhea. That’s it.”
“Okay. She can go wait in there and then
somebody will come get her.”
***
I wheeled my suitcase around a pile of
cow dung and up a steep ladder. The stewardess smiled. “Do you need any help
finding your seat?” I shook my head.
***
“I’m starving,” said
Andy.
“Chili’s. I want Chili’s,” I said as I stepped into Miami National
Airport.
Another member of our team said, “I don’t care where we go, as long
as I can get a Bloody Mary.”
***
“Thank you for choosing Starbucks! This
is Sarah. What can I get for you?” I spoke into my headset in response to the
DING! in my ear.
“Ah, yes, I’d like a Venti Java Chip Frappuccino with
whipped cream and extra chocolate drizzle,” said a sickly obese woman from her
front seat.
“I’m very sorry, but we’re all out of Java Chips right now, so
there won’t be any chunks in your Frappuccino. Is that okay?”
“What do you
mean you’re all out of Java Chips? This is ridiculous. Never mind.”
I heard
tires squeal, and she was gone.
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